This formulation was designed to provide broad spectrum (SPF/PFA <3), label SPF 70 performance. SolaStay® S1 [Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene] provides very rapid and efficient quenching of excited-state avobenzone, protecting it from photodegradation. HallBrite® BHB is included to enhance spreadability and add an elegant emollience. In vitro analysis delivered SPF ~ 75, PFA (PPD) ~26, broad spectrum performance, with critical wavelength 379 nm. A China-compliant version of this formulation using photostabilizer AvoBrite® can be found here.
| Phase | INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) | Trade Name | % Wt | Function |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Homosalate [Homosalate] | 9.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
| Octocrylene [Octocrilene] | 9.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
| Ethylhexyl Salicylate [Octisalate] | 4.50 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene | SolaStay® S1* | 3.00 | Photostabilizer | |
Butyloctyl Salicylate | HallBrite® BHB* | 5.00 | Sunscreen Solvent | |
| B | Benzophenone-3 [Oxybenzone] | 4.50 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
| Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone] | 3.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
| C | VP/Eicosene Copolymer | 0.75 | Film Former | |
Glyceryl Stearate | HallStar® GMS Pure | 1.60 | Emulsifier | |
PEG-100 Stearate | HallStar® PEG 4400 MS MB | 1.10 | ||
| Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides | 2.80 | Emulsifier | ||
| D | Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer (hollow spherical, 325 nm) | 3.00 | SPF Booster | |
| E | Water (Aqua) | up to 100 | Volatile Carrier | |
| Butylene Glycol | 3.00 | Humectant | ||
| Disodium EDTA | 0.05 | Chelating Agent | ||
| Xanthan Gum (pharma grade) | 0.10 | Thickener (Aqueous) | ||
| F | Sodium Polyacrylate | 0.30 | Stabilizing Agent | |
| G | Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Hexylene Glycol | 1.00 | Preservative | |
| Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane | 4.00 | Emollient | ||
| Silica (spherical, 12 µm) | 2.50 | Deoiling Agent |
PREPARATIVE PROCEDURE
| 1 | To a secondary vessel add phase A and start mixing. Add phase B and heat to 80°C and then add phase C. Before combining with water, add phase D and mix well. |
| 2 | To the main vessel add liquids of phase E, start mixing and add remaining phase items in order. |
| 3 | When solids of phase E are fully incorporated, heat phase to 75°C and add phase F. |
| 4 | When both phases are homogeneous and at their designated temperatures, slowly add phase ABCD to phase EF with prop mixing. |
| 5 | Start homogenizing phase ABCDEF for 3 minutes, then switch to center mixing. |
| 6 | Start cooling batch and when batch is < 50°C add phase G items one by one with mixing. |
| 7 | Continue mixing until batch is at room temperature, replacing any water lost to evaporation and mixing until smooth. |
PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS (25°C)
| Appearance (25°C) | Light yellow cream |
| Viscosity (Brk, RV DV-II, T-D, 20rpm, after 24h at room temperature; mPa·s) | 43000 - 70000 |
| pH (as is) | 6.0 - 7.0 |
*Patented and Patent Pending
The information presented herein is believed to be accurate and reliable, but no warranty or guarantee, expressed or implied, is made regarding the information or the performance of any product. Further, nothing contained herein shall be taken as any inducement or recommendation to use, manufacture or sell that may infringe any patents or any other proprietary rights now or hereafter in existence, nor to imply compliance with any regulatory requirements
The Hallstar Company - 120 South Riverside Plaza Suite 1620 - Chicago, IL 60606-3911 USA hallstarbeauty.com