This sunscreen cream was designed to provide broad spectrum (SPF/PFA ≤3) performance. SolaStay® S1 is incorporated to rapidly and efficiently quench the excited states of Avobenzone, protecting it from photodegradation and so improving sunscreen performance. HallBrite® BHB contributes to UV filter solubility and enhanced product feel. This formulation was subjected to in vitro analysis and delivered SPF ~60, PFA (PPD) ~23 performance with critical wavelength 378 nm.
Phase | INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) | Trade Name | % Wt | Function |
---|---|---|---|---|
A | Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene | SolaStay® S1* | 2.50 | Photostabilizer |
Homosalate [Homosalate] | 15.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
Butyloctyl Salicylate | HallBrite® BHB* | 5.00 | Sunscreen Solvent / Emollient | |
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate | 8.00 | Sunscreen Solvent | ||
B | Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone] | 2.50 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
Benzophenone-3 [Oxybenzone] | 3.50 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
C | VP/Eicosene Copolymer | 1.00 | Film Former | |
Glyceryl Stearate | HallStar® GMS Pure | 1.60 | Emulsifier | |
PEG-100 Stearate | HallStar® PEG 4400 MS MB | 1.50 | Emulsifier | |
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides | 2.60 | Emulsifier | ||
D | Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer (hollow spherical, 325 nm) | 4.00 | SPF Booster | |
E | Water (Aqua) (deionized) | up to 100 | Volatile Carrier | |
Disodium EDTA | 0.05 | Chelating Agent | ||
Xanthan Gum (pharma grade) | 0.20 | Thickener (Aqueous) | ||
F | Preservative | a.n. | Preservative | |
Glycerin | 3.00 | Humectant | ||
G | Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80 | 0.50 | Thickener (Aqueous) / Emulsion Stabilizer |
PREPARATIVE PROCEDURE
1 | To a secondary vessel add phase A, start mixing, add phase B, heat phase AB to 85°C and then add, in order, phase C ingredients. |
2 | After phase ABC is homogeneous and after phase EF has been prepared, add phase D to phase ABC (right before later combining oil and water phases), mixing well. |
3 | Add the water from phase E to the main vessel, dissolve Disodium EDTA and, with continued mixing, add the Xanthan Gum. |
4 | When the Xanthan Gum is fully incorporated, start heating phase E to 80°C and add premix of phase F with continued mixing. |
5 | When both phases are homogeneous and at their designated temperatures, slowly add oil phase ABCD to water phase EF with prop mixing. |
6 | After prop mixing for 2 minutes, homogenize for 3 minutes and then return to prop mixing and begin cooling batch. |
7 | When batch is below 50°C add phase G and continue mixing and cooling until batch is at room temperature. |
8 | Replace any water lost to evaporation, mix batch until smooth and perform quality assurance checks. |
PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS (25°C)
Appearance | Off-white to pale yellow cream |
Viscosity (Brk, RVDV-II, T-D, 20 rpm, after 24 h at room temperature; mPa·s) | 6000 - 10000 |
pH | 6.0 - 7.0 |
*Patented and Patent Pending
The information presented herein is believed to be accurate and reliable, but no warranty or guarantee, expressed or implied, is made regarding the information or the performance of any product. Further, nothing contained herein shall be taken as any inducement or recommendation to use, manufacture or sell that may infringe any patents or any other proprietary rights now or hereafter in existence, nor to imply compliance with any regulatory requirements
The Hallstar Company - 120 South Riverside Plaza Suite 1620 - Chicago, IL 60606-3911 USA hallstarbeauty.com